We left cool rainy Finland after 2 weeks, and within a few short hours we arrived in sunny and HOT Dubrovnik, Croatia. 
We took a taxi, with a somewhat loony driver to our Airbnb apartment. The driver ended up leaving us right outside the city gates, as cars are not permitted within the walls of the old city, and pointing at the city walls while yelling something indiscernible. Our apartment was actually a 5 minute walk outside of the old city. After some google mapping, texts with our Airbnb contact and some backtracking, we found our apartment. Another good one: 3 bedrooms, large windows facing a beautiful park, 5 minute walk to a pretty private although rocky beach and 5 minute walk to old city. Our host Ivo could not have been nicer and more welcoming! We went straight out for a late lunch: We wandered around old town and stopped at a sushi and seafood restaurant by the city walls. 
Myla tried and fell in love with oysters while Jude gave it a try and got an award for bravery (A big positive on the Big Trip has been the kids’ willingness to try new food). E and I drank the local wine and feasted on raw fish.
To finish off the somewhat long travel day we took a dip in the Adriatic sea, did a load of laundry and called it a night. We woke up in the morning refreshed and ready to explore the new city and country. Our first stop: the farmers’ market in the Old City market. (duh!) There is a somewhat small market in one of the town squares selling local fruit and veggies as well as dried figs, almonds, honey, and some chachkas for the tourists. This market is a bit touristy and pricey compared to the “local” farmers’ market we would later find by the pier on the other side of town BUT it’s the only market operating 7 days a week, even Sunday, and the quality of the produce is definitely superior. When we didn’t eat out they made for delicious fresh meals for us all to enjoy. 
We also found a fantastic coffee shop: Cogito. The only real one in Dubrovnik. Similar to the type of shops you would find in any large metropolitan city with a good coffee scene, but unheard of in this part of the world. We ended up coming here every day for a macchiato, or their homemade cold brew, or the amazing dairy free ice cream they sold out of their freezer in small cups.
We spent our 6 days in Dubrovnik getting to know the local cats, 
hiking to and swimming in the sea, 
eating the local cuisine, 
going to the farmers’ markets and learning about the city’s history and culture. One afternoon we took an extremely informative guided walking tour of the city. Even though we don’t like to do “touristy” activities we all agree that in new lands with a history doing at least one guided tour is extremely informative and enriching for both kids and adults. We are incorporating it into the “Leger World School” curriculum 🙂 A few things we learned about Dubrovnik: The city has existed as a formal community since before 900 AD. It was a city-state with a strong navy, but remained neutral in most conflicts, thus becoming a key merchant point connecting the east and west Mediterranean. The Venetians tried and failed to conquer it a few times, but their influence is widely felt and seen in the architecture and arts. Dubrovnik is home to the oldest operating pharmacy in the world and where neckties were invented. The city is mainly catholic, but there is a very small Jewish population and a synagogue (more on that later) as well as an Orthodox church (only 1). In the civil war that ravaged Yugoslavia in the 1990s parts of the old city were actually damaged even though it was supposed to be a “safe zone”. In recent years Dubrovnik has become a tourist destination and the local battle is around how to slow down developments in order to preserve its history.
Dubrovnik was the first place where we met a lot of other travelers eager to chat and curious about our journey. People were excited to ask questions, but also offered up advice and lessons they have learned along their life journeys. One woman in particular who became enchanted with Sage chatted up with E while we were eating at an outdoor table at a restaurant in old city. (Eitan’s recollection:) She told us her life story: she is from Holland, part of an old community that had been preserved for many generations. When she was younger she was a flight attendant and traveled all over the world. Her husband was older and was from Brazil and she had lived a very full life. We asked her where we should live. Her answer: Stay near the Mediterranean, live an Italy, do your business in Switzerland and enjoy every moment of your life because it is so short. 
Probably partially due to all the fun and interesting people we kept meeting and talking to, this was also the city where I think we stayed out late every single night after our first early night. It’s so conducive to late evening strolls through the limestone streets with no cars, lots of outdoor restaurants, cafes, and musicians. There was a jazzy Brazilian type of band one night at one of the outdoor bars that E and I really enjoyed. Most nights there was a couple playing guitar and violin that all 3 kids were enamored by. They would stand or sit or dance and want to listen to them as long as we would let them or as long as the couple continued playing. 
On our last morning before flying on to Greece, Myla and I went kayaking for 3 hours and some of the smaller local islands and caves. It was super fun although labor intensive for me. We kayaked to some great swimming areas and had an interesting guide that was eager to tell us more about Dubrovnik and the surrounding sea and islands. 
While V and M kayaked E, J and S visited the old Synagogue in the Jewish Quarter (which is just one street long). Dubrovnik has had a small Jewish population since the 1500s when they took refuge from the Spanish Inquisition. The Jewish street houses a Synagogue that is still in operation today, although it is mostly a museum and since the community doesn’t have a resident Rabbi services are only held sparsely. Unfortunately this year there was no Rabbi for the High Holidays, but the small community (consisting of 5 or 6 extended families still gets together for holiday meals). 
We are very happy to have visited Dubrovnik as part of our Big Trip. It is not a place we’d consider settling down in, but we had a fun, delicious, enjoyable and enriching stay.