Tel Aviv is a city full of contradictions: old and new, debilitated and ultra modern. We initially found it a bit difficult to get our bearings, find our tribes and nail down “our” go to places, but within a few days it all fell into place and most of the month was spent car-less, mainly outdoors and eating amazing simple food. Here are some of our favorites very loosely categorized:
Housing
Tel Aviv real estate prices have more than tripled since 2007. It is one of the only markets in the world that was completely untouched by the 2008 economic crisis. Thus, finding reasonable accommodations at a reasonable price was not as easy as we initially thought. Staying true to the way most things are done in Israel we ended up asking Israeli friends (in NYC) for recommendations (thank you Nati) and ended up being referred to a friend of a friend that manages short term rental apartments around Tel Aviv. Our apartment was centrally located which was perfect for us: a 30 minute walk to the new Shuk Hanamal (Port Market) or to Park Hayarkon in the North; less than 30 minute walk down to Neve Tzedek or Florentin; A 15 minute walk to the beach; A couple of blocks off of the green and car free Chen or Rothschild boulevards which had playgrounds, reading and picnic areas; 5 minute walk from Habimah square which comes alive with music and kids and adult activities in the evenings (especially Saturday evenings); and 15 minute walk to shuk hacarmel which is loud and crowded, but in which you can find anything and around which there are some great small restaurant and cafes and next to it on nachalat bentamina on Tuesdays and Fridays you can find some amazing creative items in the arts and crafts shuk. From the outside our apartment building looked a bit old and beat up, although the front was green with plants and fruit bearing trees. Inside though we found our apartment spacious and comfortable with a great open kitchen where V cooked great meals and we spent many mornings and evenings drinking coffee and tea. The service and responsiveness from the Tel Aviv Home team was great and we really ended up making this space HOME.
Restaurants and Cafes
We chose to try and make Tel Aviv as close to homebase as possible. That, coupled with trying to heal our guts and bodies after 3 months of ‘vacation’ in Europe meant that we mostly ate at home. But Tel Aviv has great restaurants. Even the local neighborhood falafel, or hummus joint is better than 99% of places in other parts of the world. Also, Tel Aviv has a great cafe and coffee culture: the coffee is very good and the experience is very personal and social (Israelis are very proud of the fact that starbucks did not succeed here).
Here are some of our favorites:
Hakosem: Our first meal in Tel Aviv was here and takeout from here (the place is extremely busy and we found it more pleasant to eat at home with the #travelingcircus) became a Thursday tradition. The hummus with chicken is amazing. The falafel, which may be the best falafel in Tel Aviv, is green on the inside and crispy on the outside (J would eat a whole bag), and the shawarma is heavenly. We only wish we had more Thursdays…
Nam: Thai restaurant right on the corner of our block. We had takeout from there our first nightvin Israel. The food was fantastic and the service was oh so friendly.
Abu Hassan: Quite possibly the best hummus in Israel and beyond. No frills here, just hummus to stay or to go. We picked up some to go when we visited Jaffa and luckily I was able to get a tiny leftover taste as the girls ate it all. A must stop if you find yourself in Yaffo.
The Old Man and the Sea: In the port of Jaffa this institution literarily greets you with a 20 course spread as soon as you sit down. Service was very friendly and the fish and kebabs were delicious.
Port Said: Eyal Shani restaurant by the old great synagogue in tel aviv. The staff may possibly (or definitely) be stoned, but the food is delicious and the drinks (they even have mezcal) are on point.
Miznon: Eyal Shani’s fast casual chain has grown to a worldwide presence, but stands out even here where the competition is fierce.
Alena: Myla is fancy and for her birthday lunch, by her request, we tried to find a fancy place in Tel Aviv. This restaurant in the Norman Hotel fit the bill without fully breaking the bank. We sat in the garden and the owner of the hotel stopped by to ask how everything is. Myla had their famous burger bloody. There is also an upscale bar inside. I prefer the more casual places, but this is a solid choice if you have a fancy friend or child.
Anastasia: Vegan restaurant on Frishman. Good selection and a casual vibe for vegans and non vegans alike.
Bana: Vegan newcomer in Tel Aviv with an excellent kitchen. Food quality was very high, menu selection very original and service great. One of the best meals we had in Israel.
Olive Korner: Israeli bistro on the way to the beach. Solid food and open on Shabbat. In true Israeli fashion we met an American guy who was intrigued by our story and had a great life story of his own to share.
Shlomo & Doron: On a side street near shuk hacarmel this hummus and more place was an incredible recommendation. The hummus shakshuka might just be the absolute perfect complete meal.
Hummus Abu Dubi: Reggae music and ridiculously good hummus. We did takeout, but the vibe is pretty chill.
Kaspi Hummus: We love hummus. This was the neighborhood joint but we only finally lunched there our last day…great musbacha and salads and of course hummus.
Bucke Cafe: Friday brunch in Israel is an experience not to be missed. The atmosphere is a cook party with great music and in between ‘chasers’ (shots) the waitstaff is chill and calm even as the crowd gets rambunctious. The food here is served on big trays or platters. Silverware is optional as you will find yourself digging in with your hands and the check comes with home made cookies.
Dok: All Israeli farm to table restaurant: every ingredient in the food and drinks is locally sourced. Fantastic food and fantastic service.
Joz V’Loz: This was our last dinner out in Tel Aviv and quite possibly the best. The restaurant has no menu and no prices. The waitress checks for any food restrictions and then the food just comes out as delicious as can be. When the meal is over you decide how much to pay.
Cafelix: Everyone has their local favorite coffee shop and this was ours. High quality beans, great pour over and a place to catch up with all the neighbors and their dogs on a lazy Friday morning.
Cafe Levinsky: Known for their fruit infused gazoz which needs to be experienced, but also has kambucha, joon and great iced coffee. On Levinsky.
Markets:
Neroli: Best health food, and lifestyle, store in Tel Aviv. Located in Neve Tzedek this became a daily stop for stocking up on everything from organic products to supplements, juices, smoothies and great takeaway food. Friendly English speaking staff and extremely well stocked. A true gem.
Shuk Hanamal: The old Tel Aviv port was reconstructed in the past decade and is now flourishing with shopping outlets, restaurants and playgrounds. There is also a food hall/food market which on Fridays becomes a full on farmers’ market. Here you can find all you need for Shabbat and beyond: in season produce, eggs, baked goods, etc. fresh from the farm, some organic. We became Friday regulars.
Shuk Hacarmel: The old, loud, bustling shuk of Tel Aviv. I am not a fan of the center crowded aisle, but after a while we discovered the side streets and small parallel streets where it’s a bit calmer, there are less tourists and some nice places. Down the main aisle and towards the back we also discovered a druze lady that sells the most amazing hummus as well as eggplant and other salads. Yum.
Levinsky Market: Not a “shuk” in the old sense of the word but Levinsky street and the area around it is the goto place for spices, dries fruit, ‘pitzuhim’, teas, and anything you need for good flavorful (not just mizrahi) cooking. We really liked a spice store called Tavlinsky. It also has some fantastic lunch restaurants and coffee.
Sarona Market: Upscale food market in the new Sarona Market center near the Hashalom train station. On Thursdays and Fridays they have some farmers. We found a great meat store (fresh and cooked) called Marinado and also enjoyed the rotisserie chicken from kukuriku. Outside the grounds of the old Sarona colony (there is a history and you can do a tour) are a nice area to hang out day or night with playgrounds, grass, picnic tables and more restaurants and bars. The mix of people here is a good reflection of tel aviv: you can run into moms and dads with their kids, government workers, high tech people, tourists or the head of the mossad (the kirya, Israel’s “pentagon” complex is across the street).
Self Care:
Shraddha Yoga Studio: Victoria found this yoga studio through a friend’s recommendation and it became her second home and local family and tribe for the month (and relationships that will last a lifetime). Great yoga in English and much more: workshops, events and an amazing staff.
Acupuncture: Through the yoga community Victoria found Juyon Kim, an acupuncturist and holistic therapist who is a great healer.
Shooshka nails: this nail salon popped up on instagram and grandma, daughter and granddaughter all treated themselves to a nail treatment for Myla’s birthday. Clean, nice and extremely friendly customer service in a nice space.
Karma Co: V met Tamy, Karma Co’s founder at yoga. This led us to a pop up healthy lifestyle event at Citizen Garden after which we tried some of the great infusions and defusions they create and we have been hooked ever since.
Rusty’s: Another yoga connection. The most amazing nut butters.
Noshitbeauty: Yet another yoga connection. Natural beauty and health products that work.
Touristy stuff:
Tour guide: Amir Call-Or was an amazing tour guide. Guiding us for 2 days through Jerusalem, the dead sea and the lowlands. Full of stories and facts and incredible patience with kids and adults.
Yitzhak Rabin Center: This museum dedicated to the late prime minister leads you through his life as it intertwines with the life of the modern state of Israel. Great museum.
Museum of Eretz Israel: When you tell local Tel Avivians you’re going to a museum and they tell you they never heard of it or been there read between the lines and don’t waste your time going…
This is fantastic! Can’t wait to go back 🙂